Detour finals

August 24 & 25, 2007

Gouda-Montfoort: 3 1/2 hours

Montfoort-Maurik: 7 hours

Definitely we are heading home now, going further east on the Hollandse IJssel. Leaving Gouda via its museum harbour, just before the lock Mallegatsluis.

Museum harbour Gouda

We have done this stretch several times before (see earlier posts on this blog), but it never bores. Passing by the pittoresq village Oudewater, very worthwhile to stop and have a few hours walk around, but not this time. We have a stop at Montfoort, where our younger son and daughter-in-law visit us. Montfoort has a lot free places on the municipal quays - but because of a fair tomorrow almost all are occupied.

Narrow river at Oudewater

Next day we read on teletext the barriers in the Rhine are still opened, releasing the abundant water from upstream Rhine. Which means that if we would enter the Rhine at Nieuwegein, we would need to crawl against high current quite some time. So we decide to make a detour, and take the Merwedekanaal and Amsterdam-Rijn kanaal instead. Less attractive but it brings us back to the Rhine at Wijk bij Duurstede - close to our home base Maurik. with only a few miles to crawl.

With some beautiful days and a marvelous sunset at Maurik this "Biesbosch tour" ends.

Vice captain

August 23, 2007

Dordrecht - Gouda: 4 hours

Today we are heading to Gouda, similar as Dordrecht blessed with hundreds of monuments, but yet quite different. Mooring possibilities in Gouda are distributed over the town at several places at municipal quays. We have been here before, so we know where to go. Our preferred location is at the Kattensingel, behind the Pottersbrug. It is quite close to the market place with its special Gothic City hall, and a bit more quite than some other places, which have busy traffic awaiting for the numerous bridges.

Today is special day, with our one year old grandson Bram visiting, so we need to find a "kings place". Today, again timing is important. If we could arrive in Gouda no later than 3 hours before high tide, we could still enter the inner city taking the south entrance (Mallegatsluis), without taking our hood off (such because this entrance has a fixed bridge with height 3.30 at high tide). Despite our journey develops without any delays - going north via the Oude Maas, de Noord and Hollandse IJssel - we arrive half an hour too late to give it a try. So we take the other route, going via the north entrance to Gouda, which means one additional lock and an extra bridge to take.

Mooring at Kattensingel

Though all places at Kattensingel already seem to be occupied at noon, a nice chap with a restored barge is so kind to move a bit, so we still find a place which exactly fits. Just in time to clean and get ready to have our young vice captain on board!

Just upon his arrival, several other ships come in, trying to find a mooring place at Kattensingel as well. One of them, a pikmeerkruiser with grandparents and grandchilds on board, taking the opportunity to moor next to us. We do not mind, our grandson enjoys - and so do we. Ai ai, little captain!

Man considers, nature decides

August 22, 2007

Rhoon - Dordrecht: 3 hours

Our plan for today didn't work out. Basic idea was to leave early, in order to take advantage of the land inward current of the incoming tide. As well as to arrive early in Dordrecht to enjoy the historic inner city and shopping area. With force 7 to 8 blowing south west however, such would not have been very thought full. Departure wasn't the main issue, the arrival would be.

Entry where the fire fighter ship moors

On our way from Biesbosch to Rhoon, we had passed Dordrecht already, offering the opportunity to have a close look at the entrance of the recommended harbour for mooring in this city; the club harbour of KDZR - the Royal Sail & Row Association of Dordrecht. On the east bank of the Oude Maas in this city, there are several possibilities to drop the lines. But clearly, this one is the best, located next to the most famous and largest church in this city. Right in the city center. Entrance easy can be found: where the fire fighter ship is moored (if not on duty of course).

One has to pass a bridge (the Engelenburgerbrug), but this is rather close to the Oude Maas, with the waves of the passing barges pushing into the narrow entrance - so no waiting for the bridge here is advised. One better could wait for bridge opening by staying on the river - not very comfortable with strong wind on the tail. We waited full morning, watching TV teletext message every hour to see if we could find a pattern by noted wind force on several places in the country. Early afternoon we concluded that upon our estimated arrival time in Dordrecht, wind would have slowed down at force 5. So we departed, but with current on the bow now and wind on the aft. It took about one-and-a-half hour longer than our route in the other direction yesterday. Arriving in Dordrecht almost just-in-time for bridge opening (the bridge to the yachts club opens every half hour), so no long time uncomfortable waiting. Good timing makes the difference!


At this time of year, several places to chose from. Such can be quite different in high season, the harbour master explains. It can happen one can walk from one side to the other via the ships decks, he says. Don't know if he is exaggerating. As the bridge opens only between 08:00 am and 06:00 pm, no early departure and late arrival here anyhow.

A Linssen (hardly) never is alone. Also the French flagged l'Argonaute found this place for a stop

One easily can understand why it can be very busy here. Coming from the north or east, Dordrecht is an ideal place for a stop. The harbour has very good facilities, located right in the center, is safe with a fence around - and surrounded by little restaurants, galleries and speciality shops. Want to sniff some culture? Dordrecht is said to be the oldest city of Holland (which, by the way is not the same as the Netherlands!), obtained city rights in 1220. Name comes from Thuredrith - which means place at the river Thure - which place first was mentioned in 1049. It has over 1000 monuments, of which the Grote Kerk (big church) with its not-finished tower is one of the most appealing.

We selected a mooring place right after the bridge, close to the church. However, one needs to be aware that close to the entrance/exit of the harbour, the incoming swell of the passing barges might be perceived as less pleasant. Looking at the menus of the restaurants next to the harbour, a local passing by advised us to go to fish restaurant the "Stroper" http://www.destroper.nl/. Indeed, we finalized this day with a superb meal in a very nice environment.

Crossroads

August 21, 2007

Biesbosch-Rhoon: 4 1/2 hours

As we calculated to have one extra day, before turning for our route back home again, we had a decision to make which way to go further west. Rotterdam Veerhaven proved to be attractive last year, but we already had been there. So we made the choice upon exiting the Biesbosch to take the Oude Maas southwards at Dordrecht and going further west at crossing of Oude Maas, Dordtse Kil and Krabbengat. This specific riverstretch and - crossing is by far the most busiest in Europe. For barges as a link between the Rhine and Schelde it provides the most important/direct connection between Rotterdam Europort, Antwerp and the German Ruhrgebiet. No traffic lights here and all traffic on the same level (unlike the motorways!). Instead a series of marine radio channels, subsequently to be switched to(coming from north direction 71, 79, 74, 79, 71, 4) every few kilometers in other to be aware of the directions the barges take. In between a speeding waterbus (catamarans) which alternately take starboard or portside route depending on the stops they take. Because of the numerous barges the water is rather rough.

Definitely an exciting adventure with all eyes and ears needed for experienced crew only, but do-able. We think the Oude Maas going westward from the crossing with Dordtse Kil not specifically charming, with on certain places industry sites, like south of Zwijndrecht and the sugar factory at Puttershoek. The river as the route to Europort also quite busy. All rivers around Dordrecht are tidal, with about 2 meters difference between high and low tide. Selecting the right time for going westward(which means just after the change from high to low tide) or going eastward (the other way around) pays off with a high speed and fuel-usage difference.

Today our route ends at Rhoon club harbour, which is next to another specific nature area Rhoonse Grienden. This is still cultivated willow land, with nice footpaths trough the willows, and little creeks that fall dry or are flooded depending on the 2 meters differing tide. When mooring, be sure your lines are flexible enough to follow this large tide difference. Of course the floating jetties follow the tide, but as has to be moored here in boxes, your lines only follow in one side. On the other side the lines slip via iron bars on the fixed poles, but easily can get stuck. So at night, have a quick check if such not occurs.

For a decent meal, the famous restaurant Kasteel Rhoon http://www.hetkasteelvanrhoon.nl/ is very recommendable (and expensive), but a 5 kilometer walk or bike. However, we decided to have our dinner on home base, with increasing wind at the end of this day.

Walking in the blind

August 20, 2007

Willemstad-Biesbosch: 6 hrs

Thought you had comfortable seats on your Linssen? Well, I am afraid I can't compete with this sofa on the cabin top of a little ship we discovered in a secluded corner of Willemstad mooring. With a lightened Heineken sign and beer tap on the aft deck.


We spotted another special ship this morning, we have met before. Just after passing the Moerdijkbrug, we discover the Statenjacht Utrecht approaching us. We have met this before, when crossing the Randmeren in June of this year. http://mylinssenexperience.blogspot.com/2007/08/heroic-moments.html. Once again, a very beautiful sight!

Today we are heading for the National Park Biesbosch http://www.biesbosch.org/, a green maze of rivers, island, sandbanks and creeks. It is one of the very few remaining fresh water tidal areas in Europe, with a vegetation mainly consisting of willow woods. Though still tidal with a tidal difference of approx. 80 cm, in former times the tidal difference was up to 2.00 meters. Originally this officially recognized 'wetland' was the area of traditional forms of land-use, with withy beds and reed-lands. When closing the Haringvliet from the sea, the flood-influences decreased but the dam was build in such a way, that some remained just to keep the Biesbosch area alive. Plans exist by change of the drainage policy of the Haringvliet, because of which a larger tidal difference will be brought back.

No need to say, this area is full of special bird-species and other wild. A very special species is the beaver. In 1988 five beaver couples - imported from Germany - were released in this area. Today there over 60 beaver lodges to spot in the area.

Actually, the Biesbosch consist of two areas, split by the Nieuwe Merwede: the Brabantse Biesbosch and the Dordrecht/Sliedrecht Biesbosch. We enter the first part from the south side, via the Noordergat van de Vissen (north hole of the fishes) This is our first test. Not having a GPS, such is like walking in the blind. The map shows where the sandbanks are, but you can's see them, and the Biesbosch is not buoyed. So very concentrated eyes on the map as well as on the depth meter to spot depth changes. No needless effort, as we spot a banked large ship within a few hundred meters after our entrance. Tugboat already there to free it from its not enviable position.

But it is beautiful indeed, despite the rainy weather. However, we do not have to guts to go further inside to the Gat van de Noorderklip, as we originally planned. We follow the advise of the crew of the Oostvaarderkotter we earlier met, and go to the other Biesbosch.

Passing the Spieringsluis, crossing the Nieuwe Merwede, and taking the lock on the other side just after the ferry. Just after having passed this lock, go starboard en follow signs Moldiep. First possibility go port side to Biesbosch center Dordrecht - next to which we stayed for the night, or follow route north-east direction 'De ruigten bezuiden de Peerenboom" (rough land south of the Pear tree), where we discover very nice mooring places next day.

The mooring in the Biesbosch itself requires some precautions. Because of the tide and the low quays, at flood the fenders don't do very much - they float. We still have to figure how to solve this. Some people use a pipe or fenders filled with sand (so they do not float any longer). Old car tires will work as well. We however do not have such equipment on board. Another skipper used the spare (aft anchor) on the side, to keep his ship of the quay. We managed without any of this solutions, but had a look several times during the night to release or tighten the lines. It was worth every wake-up call.