Strategic position

August 19, 2007

Middelharnis-Willemstad, 4 hrs

Not leaving very early this morning, after the enjoyable evening before. But plenty of time to go a bit further westward on the Haringvliet before our halfway turn (a week gone now, another week to go). We have a quick glance at Hellevloetsluis, crossing the Haringvliet to the other side, enjoying the wide views. Also this place offers nice mooring, but not for us this time, we have to turn and take the north side of the Haringvliet, on portside of the island Tiengemeten. Originally this was a sandbank, flooded by the tide, later on dikes were made around and it became farming land of about 700 hectares and 7 farmes (the farmers being the only inhabitants). In 2006 the last farm was closed, the land will be given back to nature http://www.tiengemeten.com/. It can be visited by ferry, but unfortunately there are no places to moor for visiting with ones own ship. Passing by, one can still see the remains of the left farms.

Now we are heading for Willemstad. Originally on this place a fortification was made by order of Prins Willem van Oranje one year before his death (1584) , his son Maurits named it Willemstad ("Williams' town"). On this strategic position with clear views in all directions over the water ways, it resisted many wars with Spanish and French intruders.

The fortification is a clear 7-point star, with on each of the stars a fortification. Each of them is named after one of the original seven Dutch provinces. Emperor Napoleon visited in 1809, after surrender because of the loss of Bergen op Zoom to the French, and further fortified, amongst other with building a (canon/gun) powder magazine. It is one of the several places of interest to visit, besides the typical (round) Koepelkerk (1608) and the Mauritshuis.

Sooner or later, when touring the Netherlands with your own ship, Willemstad should be visited. Not only because it is one of the most famous walled towns of the Netherlands, but also because of its strategic location before entering the Zeeland waterways.

Several possibilities to moor here, even inside the inner harbour, which is very tempting. We were tipped however not to do so. Because of the pubs with their terraces and loud music along the quay, mooring here is not recommendable, at least not on long summernights. We took our 'strategic' position just outside the wall, next to the mill, but also with a good view on the large ships passing by on the Haringvliet.

No disco tonight

August 18, 2007

Beneden Sas - Middelharnis 5hrs

In case we had more time, from Beneden Sas we would have taken the route to Grevelingen, to the salt water area. But we hadn't and expecting visitors tonight and tomorrow, we decided to enter the Volkerak, direction Haringvliet. Quite some nice (former) fishermen town there as well, but as this is closed from sea by the Haringvlietdam, this is fresh water (or at least a blend).

Even though not high season any more, the Volkerak sluizen still rather busy. Though large locks, high season can be a mess here. The signs on the waiting jetties show how to line up for waiting - but not sure everyone complies with... In the lock we encountered 'l Argonaute, a French flagged Linssen, we would meet again later in Dordrecht.

A quick glance at the moorings in Den Bommel and Stadt a/h Haringvliet made us decide to go for Middelharnis. This has a very cosy mooring, at least if one has to opportunity to moor at the far end, in the middle of the center. Most mooring places are alongside the entrance canal. Mooring there can mean a rather long walk to the nice center, and it is quite busy with the passing yachts on the narrow canal. At the entrance of this canal coming from the Haringvliet one has to pass a lock that is usually open. Except from Saturday-evening 22:00 to Sunday-morning 08:00. The harbour master explained why. Until last year they experienced quite some problems with youngsters visiting the disco's with their speedboats, returning to their home base again in the middle of the night with high speed, troubling the moored yachts. Simple solution: close the lock, problem gone.

Middelharnis inner harbour

Lucky as we were, the harbour master showed us a place that just had become vacant in the center... Just a few places away from the former mooring place of Faya Loby, the 45ft sailing yacht of our friends Theo and Michelle. They are sailing the oceans for 7 years now (Caribean, North America, Panama, Indian Ocean, Atlantic Ocean, all the way). At this moment their ship is in or near Malaysia/Singapore, but as our friends just had their annual brief break in the Netherlands, having their foothold in a place nearby, we invited them on board and afterwards had a very good company and cosy dinner in the recommendable restaurant Vingerling at Middelharnis quay. Lots of things to talk about!

Crossing cattle

August 17, 2007

Terheijden-Beneden Sas: 5 hrs

We experienced the route over the Mark kanaal between Geertruidenberg and Terheijden not very worthwhile, because it leads through a rather industrialized area. The environment - further going west, as we did today - between Terheijden and the connection with the Volkerak at Dintelsas is nicer. Unfortunately however, also on this stretch, from almost every perspective the horizon shows the chimneys of either the refinaries at Moerdijk or the power plant at Geertruidenberg. Furthermore, apart from Terheijden, we did not discover attractive mooring on other locations.

This might change when the new inner harbour of Breda town will be ready. Like in some more Dutch cities some decades ago it was decided to fill up the canals in the inner city and build parking garages; currently the water is brought back again, and bring back the "original" state to make the inner cities more attractive for recreational/touristic purposes. I must admit: we have not tried the little detours from the Mark & Dintel, for instance to Oudenbosch and Etten-Leur - partly because we weren't sure about depth.

Entering the Volkerak via the lock at Dintelsas ("sas" is dialect for lock), provided quite some difference. From the rather sheltered river, to the wide & bumpy open water. In the lock a 40ft sailing ship experienced quite some difficulties - ending with a completely turned ship, bow to the wrong side. It had to exit the lock going backwards. We don't know how come. It is said that when fresh water meets salt water (like is the case in some other locks in Zeeland), it creates unexpected turmoil. However, the Volkerak hasn't salt water but "blended" at the most.

Harbour of WSV Volkerak

Aiming today for the WSV ("yachtsclub") Volkerak, recommend by the owners of the Oostvaarderskotter we met in Gennep. It is just before the lock Beneden Sas, on portside. There is a harbour after the lock as well, but not as nice. The latter one with the disadvantage one has to pass this nasty lock. Nasty because it doesn't have the possibility to fix the ship onto the quay inside the lock, but offers poles instead - at a too large distance for less that 40ft yachts.

But the WSV Volkerak before the lock has a cosy little harbour, adjacent to the most beautiful nature park "Dintelse Gorzen". Nice walking tracks with marking to be taken - and so we did for a few hours. Do not forget to put on your boots, as some places can be muddy, and to take the camera and binoculars with you, spotting the numerous birds. And also be ready to encounter water crossing cattle, like we did.

Want to be a millionaire?

August 15 & 16, 2007

Heusden - Terheijden: 4 1/2 hours

When we arrive in Heusden at around 15:00 hrs, it seems to be rush hour. Quite some skippers try to find a mooring in the cute little town, as poor weather conditions fore casted for next day. Indeed, this is a good place to stay for a while, with historic grounds to walk around, and a dozen of restaurants around the marketplace.

Several places to moor here. One possibility is the harbour to one of the two yachts clubs - we prefer the one at starboard site facing the town. It as a clubhouse build on a Normandy pontoon (really!), very nice & efficient harbour team, to be reached by marine radio (channel 31) before entering - so upfront knowing which place one can take. What I dislike, specifically in this busy moment, is the rather narrow entrance, and the crowded boxes with low fingers. With the strong side wind like today, I feel it like to be miracle if I can get in without damage.

Another opportunity is the small inner harbour, to be entered through the high old bridge besides the mill. We have moored there before, but experienced the disadvantage of the high quays, taking all the sun away. And no shore power, by the way.

The third possibility is the municipal quay, just outside the city wall and managed, by the way by the yachts club as well. We find a place there, sheltered for the increasing wind, and close by the evenly sheltered marketplace. Still some restaurants we did not experience yet to choose from, and just before the rain starts have dinner on the terrace. In case you might wonder why in such a small town so many exclusive cars being parked and driving around (by men alone)? Last year Heusden became a gossip town because the street price of Postcode Jackpot hit the ground here. And by the way, another tv-series "Men without there wives" has started here.

Terheijden on the Mark river

Next day, indeed completely different compared to our terrace night dinner. Rainy and stormy. Going further west, where the Maas enters the Amer with strong bow wind, we decide not to follow that route straight to the widening Hollands Diep and Volkerak, but enter the Markkanaal at Geertruidenberg. The latter place has a nice inner town as well, but we pass because the small inner harbour seems already to be crowded at noon. We continue our way to Terheijden, where we find a cosy and sheltered little mooring and have a superb dinner with our friend Kees & Thea, who live nearby.

Three is a crowd

August 14 & 15, 2007

Gennep - Maasbommel 4 hrs

Maasbommel - Heusden 5 hrs

Today we experienced, in practice, a typical Dutch interpretation of the saying "Three is a crowd". But first, before leaving the Gennep harbour, we enjoyed the fresh bakery the harbour master delivered, and had a nice cup of coffee with Kees & Lydia, crew of a beautiful 'Oostvaarderskotter'. As their homebase being in Strijensas at Hollandsdiep (slightly west from Moerdijkbridge) and close to Biesbosch, they shared their insight about the places (not) to be in this nature park area we were aiming for. And besides, of course, we admired mutually our ships.

Leaving Paesplas shortly before noon, arriving at Grave lock within the hour, as third in a row. First, a commercial barge, second another yacht. Upon our request, the lock keeper said over the radio he would give it a try to have us and the other yacht entered after the barge as soon as the lock would be on our side again, at first turn. Such took quite a while, and when the barge had entered, the lock closed. We figured, that after all - and maybe after discussion we were not able to follow - it was decided that going together with the blue cone ship (dangerous content) wasn't a wise thing to do. In the mean time quite a few other ships arrived. Three commercial barges, and about another 10 yachts, or so.

Another hour to go, before the lock being on our side again. As the new three barges had to enter first, we figured we had to wait for another turn. But once they had entered, suddenly and unexpectedly, the lock keeper announced over radio he had some room left for first 2 or 3 yachts. As struck by lightning, all waiting 14 yachts released the lines, steaming to the lock in battle array. Even one yacht coming from the quay at Grave a mile away, in full speed. In Dutch, three is a crowd, indeed. Frankly, if you have ever left Schiphol airport for intercontinental flight, you will have experienced same. Once announced that business class can board first, most suddenly it seems everybody is having a business class seat!

Never mind, we managed to keep our second place. But the real third didn't manage without a shouting fight. This is supposed to be holiday, man!

Overall, taking this lock took about 3 hours. We figured it to be so busy today because the commercial traffic normally taking the Maas-Waal kanaal to enter the Waal via Nijmegen, now had chosen otherwise because on of the 2 parallel locks at Nijmegen to be under repair, so closed, and the other one - because of the high water levels on the Waal - being operationalised stepwise (as we learned from teletext).

Another night in Maasbommel, this time in harbour

As time run out because of the delay, we decided to spend the night in Maasbommel again, and not taking the Maxima (Lith) lock this day. And take the route to Heusden, our next aim, next day.

Double hat

August 13, 2007

Venlo-Gennep: 5 hrs

In Dutch there are quite a few 'sayings' with the word "hat" in it. They are not always positive. One saying is about 'wearing two hats' , which is mostly used in a not-so-positive way. It can be one, or the other side. Now Cómplice was going to have two hats - and frankly we did not know what to think of upfront. The hood we had as a "standard" wasn't suitable to have a Bimini zipped to it, so Gommans Sails (located in Swalmen, close to Venlo) who makes all the Linssen hoods, proposed to have a separate Bimini (partly) over the current hood. A Bimini - which is meant to protect from the sun - sounds a bit silly in this not-so-summer, but we ordered early in season with the memory of the abundant sunshine of 2006.

The Bimini fitted within the hour, and frankly we experienced the days after it to be very worthwhile. Not so, because protecting from the sun, but mainly because keeping out the rain for a greater part of the aft-deck. So we were and still are very satisfied with the investment.

Going north again, downstream the Maas, on our way direction Zeeland. On this Monday-morning quite a few more commercial traffic on the "road". Instead of being allowed to enter the locks right away, now we had to wait quite some time. Sambeek lock kept us waiting over an hour before being able to enter. But holiday, so no hurry.

Several times we had just passed it, but now we wanted to have a look at the little harbour of yachts club Gennep (WSC De Paesplas) . It is hided behind the commercial harbour of Heijen, (the Paesplas) and so far we had been somewhat reluctant to enter, because the maps says the entrance doesn't have much depth. Our meter however did not show any obstacle when entering carefully.

It proved to be a very good choice, this lovely little one, to spend the night. Very friendly people with a harbour master which goes great lengths to please his guests. Even going to the bakery early morning to pick up the ordered fresh rolls, and deliver them on the gangway early morning. Together with a good piece of Limburgse vlaai (the famous cake), before leaving the southern province.

Looking around

August 12 & 13, 2007

Cuijk-Venlo, 7 hours

The few hours we had done last Saturday night, after the public transport day, payed off by providing us a full relaxing day for the route from the Kraaijenveldse plassen at Cuijk to Venlo. Despite we left rather early, with sun shining and no wind. We like the mirroring water of such an early morning, with only a few fishermen on the shore. Until the lock at Sambeek, meeting only one ship from the other side!

Sambeek lock, early Sunday morning

Another advantage of the plenty of time we had: to have a quick look at the possible moorings we passed by and never had been so far. Just to have an impression for return route and maybe other occasions. So first we had a look at the mooring of restaurant Mazenburg http://www.mazenburg.nl/, just before the lock Sambeek on a little peninsula created by correction the river course of the Maas. We had seen the sign on the shore before, but never went into the small side extension - frankly also because the map warned for some undepths, so we carefully entered (but without any problem). The place is very beautiful, the menu looks very promising, be there happen to be only very few mooring places, and this Sunday morning all occupied.


Also we had a look at Leukermeer moorings. By midday on the scarce real summer Sundays very busy and crowded, specifically the yachts-harbour. Just a few places left. It could be a stop for our return route, but we did not regard it as a top priority. Wanssum harbour, with a rather stimulating signs and Internet promotion, proved to be disappointment only. The entrance through the container harbour isn't very fancy, but even seeing through and passing by into the yachts-harbour didn't make us very enthusiast. Narrow entrance, all fancy places occupied by large ships, dirty water. Finally Gennep harbour, rather difficult to find because kind of hided after passing the industrial harbour, provided the "warm feeling" that made us decide to pick this one for the return route.

Venlo WV de Maas, still under construction

At around 3 pm mooring at Venlo club harbour - ready to have Cómplice fitted with a "second hat". We have been here before (last year), and it is a nice place to be. However, since last year the harbour is under construction. It already has been made twice as large as it used to be, with almost all new jetties. However, still some work today, like a new entrance from/to the Maas.



A few hours after our arrival, another 299AC arrived. Not in the standard creme color, but with the hull in the "old" dark blue. According to our personal taste: we're glad we have followed Linssen's choice for the new color scheme.