Thursday, August 30, 2007

A different perspective


August 11, 2007

Maasbommel - Ravenstein - Grave
3 engine hours
7 public transport hours


I do not know how this works in other countries, but in the Netherlands typical daily chit chat is about a) the weather, b) the traffic jams and c) the delays in public transport. So far I didn't have much reference to participate in discussions about public transport. I hardly ever use. Such all changed today.

Within the hour after our leave of the Gouden Ham at Maasbommel, our yachts club called about expectation of the high rise of the Rhine. We had seen the flooded quays in Switserland and South of Germany on television earlier this week. But we never realized this could potentially cause a situation that normally only occurs in winter (and not even every year). When the rise is high enough - which means 14 meters at Lobith where the Rhine enters the Netherlands - and the barriers are opened to get rid of the excess of water caused by abundant rainfall upstream, the parking lot at our club-mooring is under half a meter of water. This is were we parked our car for our just started holiday!

No alternative than go to the nearest harbour with a railway station - which happened to be Ravenstein at the Maas - and taking public transport back to Maurik, having in mind the pictures I took last winter when the Rhine flooded as well - showing a "floating harbour". Despite the straight line distance between Ravenstein and Maurik is about only 40 kilometers or so, there is no straight connection (mainly because of the Waal in between). It indeed took 7 hours for the return route by all means of public transport - on this Saturday no cabs around! Later we heard by far we weren't the only ones - none of our club members expected this when leaving for the holiday. (during wintertime and early Spring everyone is used to look on Internet and/or teletext, to see the flood graphically coming, by following the rise & fall measurements upstream to downstream; but not this time of season!).


Anyhow, it was about 7.00 pm when I returned, just for replacing a car a few hundred meters. And by the way, the water came close with Lobith measurement at 13,5 meters, but there was no overflow - just could not take the risk.


A rapid decision to be made. The lock at Grave on this Saturday night would close at 8:00 pm, and on Sunday morning not starting before 9:00 am. Let's give it a try to catch the last round this night - don't spare the horses - and we managed. Arriving on a nice mooring at the Kraaijenbergse Plassen near Cuijk - with dawn nearing. Time for a glass of wine.
Kraayenbergse plassen with several free mooring places, and a provisionary club harbour left lake (c Google picture)

Monday, August 27, 2007

Exploring South-West




August 10, 2007

Maurik - Maasbommel: 6 hours

Like last year, we have split our holiday-season tour into two forthnights. In June our course headed for the north, this time we have planned a direction of the prevailing Dutch wind: south-west. A daring attitude, specifically because this year seems to be dominated by strong wind force all the time! Lets label this tour, the Biesbosch Tour. Which sounds kind of silly, because our first day of this tour goes opposite direction - heading to Venlo. It is like going from London to Rome, via Helsinki. Reason for this detour is the ordering of a bimini to be fixed by Gommans in Swalmen, the company that provides all the hoods for Linssen.

Venlo is a convinient place for Gommans to visit us and fix the bimini - I don't fancy to drill holes in Cómplice myself - and we don't mind to make the travel. Despite - or maybe even because - we have done the trip upstream the Maas to the south several times now, we do not mind, it is a beautifull stretch to go. And we haven't seen it all, yet. From Maurik to the Maas, there are several ways to go. Last year we have done Maasbracht-Maurik via Nijmegen and the Waal to Tiel (both downstream and upstream), early this year we have experienced the connection between Maas & Waal via the Bergsche Maas at Heusden. This time we take the route via the connection between the two rivers at Sint Andries. Such is the place where the Waal and the Maas and the Waal come closest to each other.

The three locks we have to take for this route - at Tiel, at Sint Andries and at Lith - are very much in favour of Cómplice today. Without exception, we can enter them without even waiting. After six engine hours we moor on one of the many (>175) free nature places in the Gouden Ham area at Maasbommel. A good start of our August-adventures, which will bring quite some surprises - not at least the one of tomorrow (we are not aware of yet).




Above: Our mooring in the Gouden Ham


Next: Air view of Gouden Ham area at Maasbommel with entrance from the Maas at low/left side (c) Google Earth

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Home, almost


July 1, 2007

Maarssen - Maurik: 5 hours

For ships with height less than 2.50 meters, it is possible to follow the Vecht further south and passing the inner city of Utrecht right through the middle. With all folded down (mast, hood, windows) are height is close to 2.50 on Morse-knob. Just one fixed bridge is holding us. But it is not worth a try, so we have to exit the Vecht into the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal just south of Maarssen. This exit has a fixed bridge as well with height 3.80 (of course depending on the current water level), just after a small (mostly open) lock.

I have made a picture on my dashboard, so I (and maybe other captains) have my draft possibilities in a glance.

Before leaving this morning we debate - shall we take the hood down (which is lowering our height from 3.40 to 2.75) or leave it on. The building rain clouds decide we should leave it on. Just before entering the narrow lock (with current!) before the bridge, a scale indicates the free height to be close at 4.00. So with confidence we enter. An almost fatal error, not having taken into account that the large high speed barges - as one is just passing by - on the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal push high waves into the narrow lock connection with the Vecht. Twenty or even forty centimeters is not enough free space for this place!

Pushing back, fighting to keep our in the middle of this narrow connection, dancing in the waves of the passing barges, no time to throw fenders out. Fortunately we succeed without damage, but it is close. Almost, not home. When backed off from the bridge enough, in the middle of the lock we lower the hood in a provisionary way, and pass the bridge. At the same moment all locks of heaven open with a kind of tropical rainfall. No way, we can put the hood up again now on the busy Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal. It is not even possible to take the hands of the wheel to take rain clothes on. It takes about 5 km further south before we can enter a small industrial harbour, where we can fix the hood again. Soaked to the bone, no dry thread to find.


It is a memorable end of our Friesland tour. And a learning lesson too: as a skipper, never try your luck but be prepared.


Safely we return on our home base Maurik in the course of the afternoon. End of this tour. Looking forward to next.

Wedding day


June 30, 2007

Huizen - Maarssen: 6 hours


What can I write more about the Utrechtse Vecht, than in my earlier blog-contributions

http://mylinssenexperience.blogspot.com/2006/11/team-assessment.html

http://mylinssenexperience.blogspot.com/2006/12/up-or-down.html

and the article in recent issue of Linssen's magazine My Serious Pleasure? The Vecht with its numerous house boats and Golden Age estates is a river one has to do at least once. If done once, probably one wants to do the river again - never boring.

Let's focus now on some specific experiences this day, on our route from Huizen to Maarssen.



First, we have never experienced and seen so many wedding parties on one-day. On party boats, on lawns before large estates, at restaurant terraces alongside the river. Must be about 10 in a few hours. No special date as far as I know, just a Saturday. Quite sure that in some wedding albums passing Cómplice is acting as background - with of course the just married couple and their family on the foreground!


Just after passing one of these wedding party boats - very slowly progressing, seemed like ages, probably otherwise being too early for the church - we faced another experience. From other side a Zodiac, nearby one of the two-some crew standing up. Stop, police. I was stopped for speeding!


The policeman claimed my speed must have been over 10 km/hour, where only 6 was permitted (which is for most part of the Vecht, also because of the houseboats). No way, I argued, I cannot possibly go any faster than 10 which is the calculated hull-speed, so what are you talking about? (Frankly, I was doing 8 (because of just having passed the party ship). He wanted to verify himself my max speed, so be my guest. They could not have proven anything anyhow this time, coming from the opposite site and just guessing (no serious measurement), but that is different matter. But be aware: sometimes indeed they have radar-measurement on this river, really!


End of afternoon we find a nice mooring just before Maarssen, at a public mooring quay of Goudestein, one of these old merchant estates with public garden. Until recently it was used as town hall, but currently only for .... weddings. So even when moored we could assess the wedding gowns, as guest walking by on the footpath adjacent to the mooring quay.

Heroic moments



June 29, 2007

Elburg - Huizen: 5 hours


The sheltered inner harbour of Elburg completely has hided a surprise we discover soon after we have passed the Elburg bridge. A strong blowing south-west wind, which gradually increases by the hour. As we listen to the daily weather news on VHF, they give force 7 for the nearby Lelystad. Though (or maybe even because) the Randmeren are rather shallow outside the shipping lane, the waves are terribly short but with increasing height. No problem for Cómplice, but once again the wipers have overtime for the remaining day.



On opposite site an increasing number of ancient botters with full sail passing by. They are on there way to historic botter days in Kampen, we have read about. It is a magnificent sight, to see them speeding with the wind on their stern.


At Bunschoten we see a large fleet coming, with a "kings ship". Despite I should stay at steering wheel, needing two hands with the strong wind, I grab the camera and can't stop shooting. In the middle of the botter fleet is the "Statenjacht Utrecht" leading the pack. As I learn later on this is a precise historical replica of an old VOC vessel http://www.statenjacht.nl/ The original dates from 1746, rebuilding it has taken 5 1/2 years as an educational & training project. The design of these "Statenjachten" - mainly used for luxury transport of VIPS in shallow Dutch waters - was based on the design of warships that conducted fierce battles during 80 year war against Spain. Quite some Dutch painters made their masterpieces, figuring those battles. Now I am just using my digital camera, and the approaching fleet still looks impressive!



We decide to be less heroic for today. With the strengthening wind and increasing waves, we decide not to follow our route to the Markermeer today - where we should take a route with side wind to enter Muiden - but to take shelter for tonight in Huizen. Like most other yachts.

First row seat


June 28, 2007

Vollenhove - Elburg


When leaving Vollenhove we note that the water level must be about 1 meter higher than normal, as shores are flooded. Must be the abundant rain throughout Europe flooding into the IJsselmeer via the rivers, and the strong west wind blowing the water into the Zwartewater. At least our entry into the Ganzediep - our way to Kampen - will not create a depth issue. The first kilometers of this waterway through the Kampereiland can be rather shallow. However, once entered we face another issue - which makes me think whether this route has been a wise decision. The first stretch is only a narrow shipping lane on the low wind (east) side of the Zwartemeer. With the strong west wind blowing, it requires all attention and steering in order not to be blown on the shore. But we manage and arrive via the curving Ganzediep about noon in Kampen. There we drop our guest crew at the "stop & shop" quay next to the railway station.


We're on the IJssel again, following our route downstream, and face another exciting experience. With strong west wind on the bow and high current on the stern, the water in these few kilometers before the IJssel enters into the IJsselmeer is rather turbulent. I estimate the waves to be 1-1 1/2 meter high. Cómplice seems to enjoy, taking a dive every minute, and so do we, only the wipers have overtime with the bow spray showering the ship from bow to stern. This is only first exercise as we later on discover. My only concern is an article I recently have read about a skipper who had engine failure on virtually the same spot. Such because the turbulence mixed the diesel in his tank with some (condense)water in the tank - as he later discovered. I haven't looked whether my tank is clean since Cómplice was delivered last year, so I better do as soon as I have the opportunity!



In Elburg we go of course for a place in the inner harbour, but in vain - all places are occupied. So we return and moor at the long stretched quay alongside the entry canal to Elburg. There we see suddenly Prince Arthur again, at the brokers quay on opposite side. Our present Linssen flag proudly waving... However, we do not like this place to moor for the night. On our side of the water a busy motorway causes too much noise. Better we go outside again and search for a place somewhere outside, but let's just make sure and see again if we can't find a place in the inner harbour. When doing so, the harbour master is waving. He has a VIP-place for us, a first row seat, adjacent (or even partly amidst) the historic botters. Cómplice doesn't deserve less!

Tuesday, August 07, 2007

Feeling home



June 27, 2007

Joure-Vollenhove: 8 hours


When we arrive in Vollenhove harbour by the end of this afternoon, it feels like coming home. We have been here before with Cómplice http://mylinssenexperience.blogspot.com/2006/11/beauty-contest.html, and have the same friendly and helpful welcome as last year by a new harbour master. Of course, we go to visit the well known fish shop before it closes at six, and buy our evening meal. Superb! Most people aim for Blokzijl as their destination, which is nice for sure. But we prefer Vollenhove a few kilometers south. Nice place to walk around as well, and less crowded.




Our route for this day also has been familiar, but never boring. With nephew Peter most of the time on the steering wheel, via Tjeukemeer (still rather shaky because of yesterday's storm), and the Jonkersvaart to Ossenzijl, where we have to wait whilst the bridge-keepers and us have lunch. On the small and busy canal, with still very strong wind on the side, it proves to be impossible to leave the low-wind side quai without using the a spring on the bow-side.


Just after having past the bridge, following the Kalenbergergracht with the many little houses on both sides, we are in for a surprise. At the quay of the first free-nature mooring after the bridge we discover the first other 299AC we have seen during our tours (except of course "Indira" during the Linssen Easter tour!). It has German crew, but bares the Dutch name "Aalscholver" (a water bird). Therefore we assume it to be a hired ship, which later on is confirmed by Linssen who has sold one or two to a charter company in Zwartsluis. We pass by with a lot of waving, of course. With so many 299's sold, we are still amazed that so far we have seen so few on the Dutch waterways. Probably such will change in the next few years, and maybe in other parts the country (Friesland itself has a lot of competing shipbuilding companies).


Despite, everybody seems to recognize the typical Linssen hull immediately. A lot of people show with thumbs up, and even a skipper passing by coming from other side making gestures that he wishes to be packed for him as a present. It takes some time before we understand what he wants...but than have a mutual laugh.

Noteworthy:
  • Visit the widely known fish shop adjacent to harbour and buy some superb fried fish and/or smoked eal - excellent
  • Walk around the town with its peculiar old - circle shaped old fisherman harbour behind the church

Friday, August 03, 2007

Zero eight

June 26, 2007

Zero engine hours today, force eight. Glad we stayed in harbour today and fixed some extra lines yesterday evening. Our neighbour taking of the remains of partly blown-off bimini. We're amazed that some ships despite the weather go out - but note they return very soon, needing several attempts to get moored again without damage. Between the showers - and unfortunately partly during - we walk to town and do some shopping. With 14C is seems like Fall! But some time to read a book - this can be Dutch summer as well.

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Fire drill

June 25, 2007

Eernewoude - Joure: 3 hrs


From Eernewoude to Joure is only a short distance. We have chosen Joure as destination for today, because it offers a sheltered harbour with good facilities, is a nice town to walk around, and has good public transport connection. For tomorrow we plan to stay in harbour because of the nearing summer-storm, for day after tomorrow we expect additional crew - our brother (in law) and his son - hence the need for public transport.


The short distance has another advantage - we arrive early in Joure harbour, so we still have the choice to pick a place. It proves to be a wise decision. The Prinses Margrietkanaal we take, is very, very busy with yachts, mingling with the few commercial barges. It looks like everyone is replacing and going for shelter - leaving the Marrekrites. As we arrive at noon in Joure municipal harbour still quite a few places available, but in the course of afternoon almost all sheltered ones are occupied.

Joure municipal harbour



The afternoon we take our time to walk to the inner town with its typical old church, and have a glance in the old shop where Douwe Egberts in 1753 started to trade colonial merchandise, which later on became the famous Dutch coffee-brand and multinational. Worthwhile to have a look! This his home of the Dutch coffee habit. Besides, Joure is worldwide known because of being the heart of the balloon festivities each year, with dozens of large, manned balloons competing for the peculiar design.


At around 6 pm a noisy fire engine arrives at harbour. And another one, and another one. Mounting up to about ten with full sirens and crews. It takes a while before we realize it is just a fire drill. Obviously from all places around the fire crews were instructed to go to this place, and time is taken to see whether they comply with the given time frame. The last one to arrive is received with a roar of applause by the fellow teams and yacht-crews. A nice break for the moment, awaiting the storm to come...