Walking in the blind

August 20, 2007

Willemstad-Biesbosch: 6 hrs

Thought you had comfortable seats on your Linssen? Well, I am afraid I can't compete with this sofa on the cabin top of a little ship we discovered in a secluded corner of Willemstad mooring. With a lightened Heineken sign and beer tap on the aft deck.


We spotted another special ship this morning, we have met before. Just after passing the Moerdijkbrug, we discover the Statenjacht Utrecht approaching us. We have met this before, when crossing the Randmeren in June of this year. http://mylinssenexperience.blogspot.com/2007/08/heroic-moments.html. Once again, a very beautiful sight!

Today we are heading for the National Park Biesbosch http://www.biesbosch.org/, a green maze of rivers, island, sandbanks and creeks. It is one of the very few remaining fresh water tidal areas in Europe, with a vegetation mainly consisting of willow woods. Though still tidal with a tidal difference of approx. 80 cm, in former times the tidal difference was up to 2.00 meters. Originally this officially recognized 'wetland' was the area of traditional forms of land-use, with withy beds and reed-lands. When closing the Haringvliet from the sea, the flood-influences decreased but the dam was build in such a way, that some remained just to keep the Biesbosch area alive. Plans exist by change of the drainage policy of the Haringvliet, because of which a larger tidal difference will be brought back.

No need to say, this area is full of special bird-species and other wild. A very special species is the beaver. In 1988 five beaver couples - imported from Germany - were released in this area. Today there over 60 beaver lodges to spot in the area.

Actually, the Biesbosch consist of two areas, split by the Nieuwe Merwede: the Brabantse Biesbosch and the Dordrecht/Sliedrecht Biesbosch. We enter the first part from the south side, via the Noordergat van de Vissen (north hole of the fishes) This is our first test. Not having a GPS, such is like walking in the blind. The map shows where the sandbanks are, but you can's see them, and the Biesbosch is not buoyed. So very concentrated eyes on the map as well as on the depth meter to spot depth changes. No needless effort, as we spot a banked large ship within a few hundred meters after our entrance. Tugboat already there to free it from its not enviable position.

But it is beautiful indeed, despite the rainy weather. However, we do not have to guts to go further inside to the Gat van de Noorderklip, as we originally planned. We follow the advise of the crew of the Oostvaarderkotter we earlier met, and go to the other Biesbosch.

Passing the Spieringsluis, crossing the Nieuwe Merwede, and taking the lock on the other side just after the ferry. Just after having passed this lock, go starboard en follow signs Moldiep. First possibility go port side to Biesbosch center Dordrecht - next to which we stayed for the night, or follow route north-east direction 'De ruigten bezuiden de Peerenboom" (rough land south of the Pear tree), where we discover very nice mooring places next day.

The mooring in the Biesbosch itself requires some precautions. Because of the tide and the low quays, at flood the fenders don't do very much - they float. We still have to figure how to solve this. Some people use a pipe or fenders filled with sand (so they do not float any longer). Old car tires will work as well. We however do not have such equipment on board. Another skipper used the spare (aft anchor) on the side, to keep his ship of the quay. We managed without any of this solutions, but had a look several times during the night to release or tighten the lines. It was worth every wake-up call.